Air, Landier, and Sea

We’re not allowed.

First, imagine, if you will, Bryce and I taking our passeggiata (leisurely evening walk) last night down the cobblestone streets of Rome. We come across a gelato shop, order two cups of gelato (Bryce got dark chocolate and I got chocolate chip) and then we continue our stroll to the Spanish steps where we sit to finish our dessert.

Although the day has been brutally hot, the breeze is cool in the evening, and I turn to Bryce and say, “Look at us! Eating Gelato on the Spanish Steps in Rome, what a moment!”

And it was a moment. Literally.

The next thing we knew a whistle was blowing and an Italian Police officer is motioning for people to leave the steps.

Thinking he surely couldn’t be gesturing to us, we sat for a moment longer, until he stopped whistling to shout, “NO ICE CREAM IN THE SQUARE!” And then whistled and gestured some more.

Clearly, he was confused. We weren’t eating ice cream, it was gelato.

But you know how the saying goes, “I scream, you scream, he screams, ‘no one can eat ice cream on the Spanish Steps!’”

So we decided the explanation wasn’t what he was looking for, so we left the Spanish steps and finished our gelato (not ice cream) 10 yards (9.144 meters in Italian) away- outside the perimeter of the ice cream-free square. The ice cream screamer topped off our evening and we finished our passeggiata on the way back to our hotel.

Today we decided (once again) to go to the Pantheon. Since it was a weekend, there was a bit of a line leading up to the front entrance. I got in the back of the line while Bryce went to ask the employee at the front if this is where we needed to be to get tickets.

A few moments later, Bryce came to the back of the line, grabbed my hand and whisked me out of line. If you’ve ever travelled with Bryce you know lines aren’t his thing and he has incredible ways of getting us out of them (like asking if we actually need to wait in it).

So, naturally, I thought even better- we can skip the line and just do the free part of the Pantheon tour.

Well, the good news is we did get to skip waiting in line for an hour, but that’s just because Sundays are a reservation only day at the Pantheon.

Believe it or not, despite our saga of not getting into the Pantheon, we actually did research it many times- the hours, the need for tickets, etc.

It said very clearly that it closes at 7:30pm (and it closes at 7pm) and that needing to buy tickets was being “considered” but as of right now not mandatory (except on the weekends, apparently).

So our Google searches didn’t pan(theon) out as expected, but that’s okay, we still got to enjoy so much of Rome.

After our final denial at the Pantheon, we decided to return to our favorite post-pantheon coffee spot, Sant Estuchio for some cafe freddo (iced coffee).

Sitting outside, enjoying the breeze, it was once again one of those moments where we were just amazed that we’re in Rome, enjoying our coffee.

Then a bird relieved itself on Bryce.

Knowing that it would bring him good luck, Bryce took it in stride and we headed to our next destination.

That brings us to our final story of the day- the Domus Aurea.

This translates to the Gold House, which is the palace that Emperor Nero had built for himself from 64-69 AD.

What’s particularly amazing about this palace is that it was intentionally buried by the Emperor Trajan about forty years after Nero’s death, in 104. Trajan’s baths were erected on top of it. Bryce has been to Rome prior to this trip but had never been to the Domus Aurea, so he was excited to get to see this historic site.

We walked right up to the front gates (so excited there was no line) and the gate guard kindly told us to buy our tickets online. Bryce pulled up the website and found tickets for the Colosseum, San Clemente, The Vatican- basically every tour but Domus Aurea.

Bryce then asked the guard which we should buy, assuming that it may be in one of the more general “Rome passes” available. The guard looked through the online ticket options and then said, “Oh, must be sold out for today.”

So much for that lucky bird poop. We headed back down the hill that Domus Aurea sits on, resolved to go find some pizza and laugh about our misadventures.

But just when we thought we were shit out of luck…

On the way down, we happened to pass an English tour group about to head into the Domus Aurea. Bryce, once again, with his ability to hear “no” as “maybe” asked the guide if we could join her tour.

We know this isn’t the common custom with tours. In fact, when we were at the Borghese Museum an English speaking couple who accidentally paid for an Italian asked our guide if they could pay to follow us around. He kindly, yet firmly said no. It’s definitely some extra work for them to call their main office and ask if more people can join and then coordinate payment, etc. So we were so grateful this tour guide tried.

And not only did she try, she succeeded!

We were able to join the Domus Aurea tour- we just had to get past the gate guard.

So here’s what we learned at the Domus Aurea:

• The Emperor Trajan was hoping to basically remove Nero’s work from history by burying his palace. In order to bury it, Trajan’s architect added many walls and ceilings and then filled it in with “earth” to be able to support Trajan’s baths above the buried palace. What Trajan actually accomplished was preserving Nero’s palace.

• Frescos were actually one of the cheapest forms of art back in the day. In fact, it’s what they used to decorate the slave quarters with. Next most inexpensive were mosaics, because they could cheaply be repaired, compared to wall or floor decor made of marble.

• “Grotesque” art originated from the frescos in the Domus Aurea, because those who found them originally thought they were artworks in grottos, not a buried palace.

So overall, we had a wonderful last day in Rome (including Sant’ Angelo and the best pizza ever, as discussed in the previous post).

If you plan on visiting Rome, our top must-see recommendations are: The Vatican, the Colosseum (choose your guide wisely), Domus Aurea, and Borghese Museum.

When in Rome, enjoy!

Just don’t enjoy your ice cream on the Spanish Steps.